K - Colors of Korea

Korea has one of the most prevalent markets of cosmetic surgery. This includes non-invasive surgery, such as hair removal, blemish removal, and skin whitening. The SAGE journal article entitled Gender, Globalization and Aesthetic Surgery in South Korea studies why South Koreans focus so much on cosmetic surgery, and what the effects are on the individual as well as the whole of society.
There are two modes of looking at cosmetic surgery that the article critiques: in terms of gender roles and feminism, and in terms of ethnic roles and westernization. This article explains that there are deeper, culturally rooted reasons why cosmetic surgery is becoming so customary. The common viewpoints of understanding the reasons behind Korean cosmetic surgery are explained:
“Studies in Korea typically position cosmetic surgery as conformity to patriarchal versions of femininity in order to maximize women’s chances of success in marriage and the economy. Some see women’s desire for aesthetic surgery as a continuation of pre-modern ‘virtuous femininity’ that required (upper-class) women to adhere to a strict Neo-Confucian decorum. Under Neo-Confucianism, men were expected to transcend their bodies (learning, philosophy) to become ‘superior’, while women’s success, bound to the intimate and the domestic, was rooted in their ability to mimic a concealed and deferential ideal, defined by virginity or maternity.”

Korea has a complex history, from the colonization by the Japanese, and now the occupation of the United States. These “Western” influences are associated with the current popular Korean standard of beauty. Korean national identity is a crucial ingredient in Korean “beauty” culture. The article references different surgeries like the double-eyelid, the raising of the bridge of the nose, and jaw reshaping. Procedures like skin whitening are also considered in this group of procedures that may seem to be appealing to Westernized standards of beauty. A traditional Korean face will have smaller eyes than the Western face; so a double eyelid may seem a Western trait. The article states that this is not the intent; the double eyelid sometimes appears on the natural Asian face, and patients undergoing the surgery for double-eyelids will claim that it makes the eyes look “less sleepy.” Others claim it is for medical reasons, and some who have one double eyelid and one without want a symmetrical face. But the article stresses that this double eyelid, or widening of the eyes, is aesthetically youthful, not necessarily Western. A universally beautiful trait is youth (as well as symmetry), and large eyes will embody youth in any ethnic standard, because it is psychologically built into the human psyche.

What is unfortunate, however, is the seeming unattainability of this quintessential “beauty” in the “natural” Korean face. A “high” nose, large, double-lidded eyes, a V-shaped face, and fair skin are attributes much sought after in Korean women as well as men. There are procedures for attaining all of these looks. But if the Korean face is not pursuing a more “Western” beauty, but an augmented “natural” Korean beauty.
“Wider eyes may be desirable, but they must be wider Korean eyes, not western ones. The most important aim of cosmetic surgery is to create a natural look that ‘enhances’ the body without losing the ‘Koreanness’ of the subject who undergoes surgery.” Even men are turning away from the traditional “hard” masculinity and getting procedures to make their faces and bodies more feminine, or “soft.” But this ideal feminine beauty seems to come from a patriarchal standard of maternity, and the self-sacrifice of women. There is even tradition within Confucianism and Korean myths concerning women “enduring pain for beauty.”

“…contemporary discourses of women’s value continue to emphasize self-sacrifice. Park argues that Korean femininity promotes suffering for the greater good, evidenced in women’s willingness to endure pain for beauty.”
The Korean society has a distant, but inescapable relationship with the old traditions, and as women are becoming more powerful in society, there are still roots in Confucian values, which are perhaps the most obviously countering female equality; the focus is more on women’s domestic roles and child rearing. Lately, women become less inclined to marry and have children, and the maternal base for beauty is no longer the reason for adhering to those beauty standards formed by it. However, the feminist movement is still weak, and women still must adhere to other “trendier” standards of beauty to succeed.

Korean society, in contrast to American society, is nationalist, collectivist, and highly homogenous. There is also an intense stress on education, getting a good job, and becoming wealthy to support your family (including your retired parents). This emphasis on economic growth then puts emphasis on Korean individual success, and within a highly populated, homogenous country, competition is impossibly fierce. Cosmetic surgery is also boosting the economy, and the government is even seen encouraging this consumption. Job applications require photos of applicants, and the article states that “around half of all Koreans believe that one can ‘read’ a person’s character by looking at their face” (Kim, 2005). This phenomenon was illustrated to me personally when I was asked to Photoshop my friend’s application photo; she asked me to make her eyes “the same size.” She thought one eye was bigger than the other, so she wanted the left one to look bigger to match the right one. I used a tool that would create the effect, but it had overdone it—she asked to make it a little smaller, so I undid the effect entirely. She said “perfect!” and was satisfied, though I had not actually changed the original picture. This opened my eyes—pardon the irony—of the effect of cosmetic surgery on an individual. It is affecting society’s expectations in many important facets of an individual’s life, as well as negatively affecting the individual’s self-image.

In Korea, two differently gendered constructions of cosmetic surgery exist: ‘marriage cosmetic surgery’ and ‘employment cosmetic surgery’. Having the ‘right face’ can be crucial in ‘marrying well’. The ‘right face’ can also be a determining factor in gaining employment in a Korean job market.
…under consumer capitalism Korean women’s bodies have entered the public sphere, no longer hidden away but now available for scrutiny and consumption. Thus, visibility produces women as ‘object[s] for alteration’ (2003: 106) evidenced in Korea’s high rates of cosmetic surgery.”

But are these standards of beauty always universal? Whiter (paler) skin in Korea is popular because is a sign of higher class, because it implies a career indoors rather than working in the rice fields. In America, however, it is currently more fashionable to tan, because it implies a higher class able to vacation to warm, luxurious places. It is unclear whether whitening will soon be an out of style trend; but perhaps the same can be said for other standards. The article mentions older forms of beauty, such as a woman’s round face. It is currently the opposite; Korean men and women are grinding down their jawbones to create a narrower chin, or a smaller face. Many times I have heard that I am beautiful because I have “such a small face,” as well as a “high nose” and “big eyes.” I am a Westerner, and I happen to carry the current standard features of beauty. According to the article, however, it is not because I am a Westerner that I am considered beautiful. It is an important difference that Koreans are not actually following the West in trends of beauty. So if beauty is a trend, then Korean men and women reconfiguring their bodies may find that later, their “beauty” is out of style. They may see beautiful features in me, but they also comment that I need to lose weight, or should try laser blemish removal, or get my dark circles taken care of, or my arms are much too hairy and should have it lasered off. The article agrees that cosmetic surgery is an addiction, and one will never be satisfied with his or her looks. And unfortunately, this unattainable “beauty” is a ladder to success in current Korean society, rooted in many complex facets of the unique culture.

Having such a diverse reasoning for the growing necessity of cosmetic surgery makes it a difficult trend to escape. Though it is possible that the standards of beauty will change, it is not at all likely that the culture will cease to pursue it. The standards of beauty are a “trend” but beauty itself is a “classic” in any culture and era. In South Korea, it is also an asset, an investment, and a grip on one’s own auspicious fate.

CITATION:
Holliday, R., &Elfving-Hwang, J. (2012).Gender, Globalization and Aesthetic Surgery in South Korea.Sage Journals, 18(2), 58-81. Retrieved March 23, 2013, from http://bod.sagepub.com/content/18/2/58

(Quelle: k-magazin.com)

Years of training. 16 hours a day. A life far away from family and friends. A new home with strangers, sharing not only a dormitory but also hopes and tears. Having to go separate ways because dreams did not come true. Maybe one day the long awaited debut stage. The tight schedule, which does not leave room for sleep. Diet plans. Makeovers. Plastic surgery. Let’s be honest. The path of a K-Pop idol is exhausting and life itself, when you made it, hard.

Every third teenager in Korean dreams of becoming an idol. Of course, the market is booming and K-Pop is one of the most important export goods of South Korea. The Hallyu Wave has also reached Europe over the last few years involving a good amount of money. With each year more and more bands are having their debut, being able to fulfill their dream. The percentage of those who are turning into stars is rather humble.

 

In a country that had a military government until 25 years ago and has grown to be an impressive industrial nation in the last decades, the matter of course young Koreans are taking this path is a different one. One that teenagers that have been raised westerly will barely be able to comprehend. South Korea’s population knows that their country would not have come so far without the well-functioning system of school and work. Diligence is a highly valued virtue and the respect towards the ones who are working hard can be shown best through more diligence. And like this the country clicks like a clockwork in which one builds on one another.

 

In a discussion with a student of Korean studies we once exchanged interesting thoughts. Idols are an important component in a smooth cycle in this country. Let’s ignore the fact that they want to boost the economy and take care of the global awareness and therefore help to sell other Korean products on the global market- leaving one thing left: The sight into the country. K-Pop stars existed long before the global market discovered them. End of the 90’s the three biggest entertainments arose - YG, SM and JYP – and short after the first groups made their debut who characterize what we now call K-Pop. They offered distraction to youngsters who have to study until late at night and the ones who have to work more than 12 hours a day and six days a week. Leaving only little time to go out and meet friends. (Of course, Koreans always find them time to meet one another and have fun -and maybe they enjoy the time more than Europeans who do not know what to do with their free time).

 

Idols are everywhere. They are colorful and cheerful. They entertain the audience at home who are sitting in front of the TV with music- and variety shows. They are smiling from posters and advertise the latest products in commercials. They can be taken home on DVDs, t-shirts and cellphone charms. At fansigns one is able to get a closer look. They offer topics of conversation aside everyday life. Their world is dazzling but- and that is particularly important- can be experienced. They are also working hard and have little free time. They like to eat, listen to music and have their own troubles.

 

K-Pop idols are open and private like no other international star- without their private family life being in the lime light, ripped apart or dragged through the mud.

 

They are the hobby that you one can afford when one barely has time. They are the scattering one needs when one is threatened to drown in responsibilities. They are role models that demonstrate that all the sweat and deprivation is worth it. Their role is important. It is responsible. When having a closer look fame and fortune, although very important and possibly the motivation for most has a subordinate role.

 

So what leads 300 European K-Pop fans in their teens (the age limit for applicants was 19) to Berlin to the YG Audition? K-Colors of Korea talked with a few of them right before they have to enter the room to showcase their singing and dancing abilities. Nicole (18) from Dortmund loves 2NE1, the girl group which is signed under YG. She has been singing and dancing since she was six years old and started because of K-Pop. What she expects from the audition is to face the staff members of YG and also she wants to get a first- hand experience of participating in an audition because there have not been any K-Pop auditions in Europe before. Yen (14) has been listening to K-Pop for three years. She loves Big Bang and 2NE1 and she is currently taking singing classes. She just wants to be part of the whole experience but she does not know if she really wants to be a trainee at an entertainment.

 

Most of the applicants came out of curiosity. They have never been that close to the Korean music business and they are willing to take this step if this brings them a little closer to their dream of a career in Korea.

 

Lee Jun Won, a staff member of YG who had been listening and seeing applicants for hours tells us how things will proceed for the applicants after the audition. Those who make it through the pre- selection in Berlin and London will be invited to a second audition in Korea. The ones who will make it will be offered a trainee-contract to sign. After that, not only singing and dancing lessons are waiting for them. The future idols are also going to learn the language and have to adapt to Korean culture. Whether they are able to make it and when it will be possible for them do debut will depend on their performance but also on the question if they will understand what it means to be an idol.

 

Sometimes when a dream comes true, you ask yourself why you were dreaming it the first place. A dream is light and carefree. In a dream you are never exhausted nor lonely. In a dream you are receiving without having to give. Some of the participants of the YG Audition in Berlin will return to their homes and dream of being successful the next time. A few will advance and some of them will wake up on the airplane heading to their home country and find new dreams. Only a handful is going to stay in Korea and hold on to theirs. Even they are going to wake up because they will understand that hard work is going ahead before one gets to experience the living dream. That there are always to sides to every coin and not only be confronted with fame, the fans and the popularity but also with stress, the missing privacy and the occasional doubts. Only those who do not delude themselves and carry enough passion and unconditionally love what they do will be able to see the door which will reveal a fascinating world. A world filled with beauty and illusion. A world filled with unexpected downs and countless possibilities.

We hope that YG was able to find such a talented and dedicated person in Europe and that we might have come across in Berlin without knowing.

 

© Esther Klung, Translation: Kim Dinh